Archival Uniform - November Edition

Per Archival Resolution #9, here is the November edition of my Archival uniform. While our resolutions recommend that you come up with a signature uniform that you wear once a week, mine has seen active use on multiple days.  

Archival striped tee women and Centralia multiweave cardigan.  Here, per usual, I follow my own rule of wearing at least two layers on top.  In another month, I might add a kerchief or a fine gauge wool scarf as a neck garnish. 

Engineered Garments Upland Vest.   Inspired by the Japanese, I love to finish my uniform with a vintage Upland style hunting vest (the pocketing doubles as a purse).  Since I'm so small, it's hard to source an authentic hunting vest that fits properly so I opt for updated versions - sized for women and petite gents - by Rising Sun, Post O'Alls or Engineered Garments.

Red Cloud & Co. Denim.  Howard Gee, the denim guru at Ab Fits, introduced me to Red Cloud premium denim made in mainland China.  The Red Cloud cut is close to a pair LVC Levis 1947, my go to denim on alternative outfit days.

Alden Cape Cod Beefroll Penny Loafer.  Not much visual variation here.  I wear Alden Cape Cod loafers - in black and brown - nearly everyday of the year.  My statement on loafers.

If you have a signature uniform, please post your notes to our Archival Facebook page or send me a note at lesli@archivalclothing.com.  I'd love to repost more visual examples (other than mine) on the AC blog. 

From the Archives: Post O'All Vests

Here are a few snap views of Post O'Alls vests from my personal collection. Inspired by vintage hunting and shooting vests, the Post O'Alls vest features an internal poacher's pocket and four outside flap pockets. The cargo capacity rivals that of an AC Rucksack. A fan of the hyper layered look - I wear mine interchangeably over wool and cord blazers.

Shopping from Japan

Herringbone wool

Cotton Poplin

Inspiration - Original Filson Hunting Vest

Fall Recommendation: Down Vests

The seasons are finally changing, and as crisper weather rolls in, may we recommend that you turn to a vest when you're chilled? We all love our Westmorland and Retro-X vests at Archival, but we also have a soft spot for goose down. There's nothing lighter and more magically insulating, and they make a great pillow when you're backpacking. Here's a round-up of some historical models pulled from Backpacker Magazine and eBay, as well as some current offerings.

Crescent Down Works (offered by South Willard)

Feathered Friends Helios and Hyperion Vests

Western Mountaineering Flash Vest

Shopping from the movies: Shoot the Moon (Parker 1982)

Some films are better watched on fast forward or reproduced as film stills. Shoot the Moon (Parker 1982) is just such a movie -- playing out like an Ingmar Bergman domestic drama populated by Woody Allen characters. While we're asked to focus on the dissolving marriage of Albert Finney and Diane Keaton, one's eye cannot help but wander to the the family's shared taste in classic clothing: wonderful cotton plaids, knits, woolens and jackets sourced (perhaps) from venerable brands like Barbour, Woolrich and Pendleton.

I've reproduced a few stills for reference:

Rugby stripes and heritage garb for kids

Knit cardigans

Plaids (and pencil sharpeners)

Barbour Solway Zipper jackets (and a fetching duffle)

Woolrich jac-shirts

Down vests

Pendleton blanket robes

Cotton knit caps

And a few a household accessories:

Rotary phones

Backyard tennis courts

Family station wagons

Synthetic Exceptions: Wind Vests for Cyclists

Framebuilder Dan Boxer wearing a discontinued wool Ibex vest in June

Standard issue, safety yellow, synthetic vest worn by Audrey A.

Karl, Eugene Tweed Ride participant, sporting wool Filson liner as cycling vest. Recommended for low speed cycling or cyclo-commuting only.

Use value of wind vest declines at rest

When shopping from the present, I try to source products that are made in their traditional country of origin from materials that are durable, all natural and will wear evenly with use. In most cases, I'm able to find something that I would categorize as archival.

For my sport of randonneuring, or long distance cycling, I've had to compromise on some of my purchasing decisions. Most performance oriented cycling gear is produced offshore out of synthetics fabrics. For short distance commutes, I'm fine wearing everyday, non-sport specific clothing on my bike. Here, one can easily default to wearing vests and jackets made from wool, moleskin or cotton duck. But for ultra distance rides, I always wear a synthetic vest over my wool kit to block wind, regulate temperature and prevent chill. While many cyclists prefer full sleeved jackets, the synthetic wind vest provides a protective barrier without causing overheating. Alas, I've never found a wool or natural fabric version of a vest that performs better than its synthetic counterpart.

That being said, here's what I caught and released from a recent shopping project.

Boure Pro Wind Vest. Best in class. Still made in Colorado. Customization possible. Unisex sizing. Supplex nylon front, mesh back. Ideally, Boure would add a two-way zip for maximum ventilation.

Sugoi Zap Vest. Shaped body panels on this one make the fit a little strange. Although I hate brightly colored fabrics, I almost always default to bright yellow for my wind vests for maximum visibility. If you're going with a bright yellow material, why not add more bold reflective striping?

Louis Garneau Vent 2 Vest. Garneau is one of my favorite cycling brands. They produce well thought out, well structured cycling garments at a reasonable, non premium pricepoint. I love that this vest includes a two-way zipper, an essential feature on any vest or jacket. Reflective striping could be maximized.

Pearl Izumi vest (discontinued model). My old standby. As with most synthetic garments, the material on this vest does not age well with use. Dirt and grime cannot be removed.
Alp-X Zip Off jacket. Interesting option from Gore Bike Wear, another favorite brand. If I didn't have to pay an extra $99 for the sleeves, I'd keep this jacket and use it exclusively as a vest. The vest/jacket has two front pockets, a two way zip and fits perfectly. Gore makes a wind vest for women but color availability is currently limited to white and black--unacceptable colors for a cycling vest.

Not pictured is my dream vest, not available, which would be manufactured by Showers Pass, a Portland Oregon company. I wear the Elite 2.0 jacket throughout the winter and wish there were a vest equivalent. It would be made of the same breathable, durable eVENT fabric and have a two way zipper and a mesh back.

Tom and I often chatter about creating an Archival wind vest that would incorporate waxed fabrics, archival design details, but also make use of some modern synthetics. Stay tuned for future developments.