Shopping from Arnys

by Tom Bonamici

Lesli has a nice little stack of Arnys catalogs that I can't put down. It's a mile apart from our usual shopping - nothing in here could be found at a thrift store, logging camp, or Cyclist's Special. The prices are... aspirational? Improbable? Beyond our reach, at any rate. But that won't stop me from longing for a Forestière jacket, or a massively-pocketed trench, or trousers with integrated spats.





The patterns and colors are subtle, the materials are gorgeous, and the styling is distinctive, but generally trend-resistant. No skinny jeans, thank God, no desert boots, no buffalo plaid - Arnys is operating at a different plane. However, there are plenty of details that could translate nicely. Many of the jackets seem to be available with or without sleeves - why couldn't Filson make a sleeveless Mackinaw? We're both especially fond of the consistent use of a contrasting lining in cuffs and collars. And the introduction to one of the more recent catalogs has a terrific call-to-arms for the stylish gent, bemoaning the fall in standard of men's dress and, essentially, telling men to step it up. I'm working on translating this piece, and will post it soon.



Honestly, even if I could afford it, I couldn't wear most of this stuff, given how rarely I wear even a tie, let alone a suit. It's just a lot of fun to browse the catalogs and admire a job done perfectly well.

Shopping from Pillpat: Habillement du Sportsman

by Tom Bonamici

We were alarmed to see that flickr favorite, Pillpat, has loaded more images to her Manufrance set. Over dinner, we had been shopping from Arnys and Hebden Cord, both offering unobtainable clothing (one's unaffordable, one's out of business). Like these companies, Pillpat's content aggravates the historical shopper by presenting a line of unique garments all with singular cuts, details and fabrics. The hunting clothing is particularly strong in this round of images--see especially: le costume pour l'alpiniste, le nouveau costume pour la chasse et le grand paletot fourré.

I (Tom) am particularly fond of the Gilet Cartouchière (above, far right), especially in this context of being worn over a heavy sweater. Note the flapped cartridge pocketing and trim neck detailing. Translation snippet: "This vest can be made in any of our suiting fabrics."

Like in the Arnys catalog, we're really impressed by the presentation of garments as part of an entire ensemble. But we also enjoy seeing the different detailing, such as odd plackets and pockets, pivot sleeves, and wildly varying hemlines. In fact, we both think that Hergé might have done all of Tintin's shopping from this very catalog. Finally, the fabric samples bring to mind the Archival Clothing party doctrine that any garment in a line should be available in any fabric (see custom options at Old Town and Hebden Cord).


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Arnys Gent

I first bonded with friend J. by way of his Arnys jacket (it was a corduroy Forestiere, I believe).

Here's a photo of J. in a different model Arnys jacket. In Eugene (or Portland for that matter), one doesn't see many men wearing tweed jackets, let alone lovely French-made iterations with shawl collars, mustard color piping and nice pocketing.

As it turns out, our shared loved of Arnys extended to a mutual appreciation of Raleigh bicycles, Brooks saddles and American cabaret singers.

J. sent along this link to photographs by the Sartorialist of the Brothers Grimbert and their shop in Paris. Check out the hand sewn hunting cape.

From the Archives: Arnys of France

Sara is in Seville where she reports that high temperatures have driven her inside, limiting her consumer activity to late night window shopping (and daytime consumption of pork products). On her behalf, I'm crusing back through old travel photos from our 06 trip to France, lamenting retail temptations that I could not fund. Foremost was my window gawking pause at the Arnys menswear store in Paris. Of course, at my income level, my only access to Arnys will be via the glossy Arnys catalogue (better than a MOMA production) and a long ago library patron--an interior designer for high end restaurants in Portland--who actually owned a stunning corduroy Forestiere jacket.

For more, see The Sartorialist.